Is it 5 days when you arrive in the afternoon and leave late at night? Probably not. So let’s call this what it really was: four brilliantly packed days in Siem Reap involving sunrise missions, war history, red and white and brown sandstone temples, floating villages, tropical rain, and tasting Khmer food.
Day 1: Late Arrival + Night Markets
We landed mid-afternoon, got refreshed and relaxed at The Bliss Angkor (solid choice with a lovely pool, AC, quiet), and stepped into the humidity like it was an old friend without the thru hiking.
Our “take it easy” evening turned into a long, slow wander from our hotel, along the Siem Reap River to the Siem Reap Art Center Night Market.
Day 2: Angkor Wat Sunrise + Big Temple Energy
An alpine start in Cambodia? Sure! We woke at 4:00 a.m. because Angkor Wat at sunrise is non-negotiable. The day tour was organized through the Get Your Guide app, which I’ve used before in Europe. Bus, lunch, cold water, and someone who knows what they’re talking about.
- Was it crowded? Not as much as we expected.
- Was it magical? Yes.
- Did it feel real? No.
Watching the soft light with overcast clouds hit the towers was really cool. The rest of the day was a sweaty but beautiful album of temple hits: corridors, carvings, doorways, and more history than our brains could absorb before lunch.
We were also lucky to share the tour with good people. As the day continued we had good conversations with a couple of European folks, mainly about politics and history, which felt appropriate.
When we returned to our hotel we were greeted with gracious smiles, refreshing chilled flannels, and iced tea. We relaxed before heading out to Riverside Cuisine, a tiny restaurant with a one-woman show making fresh Khmer food. Mike had the fish amok. Of course, we both had fresh coconuts to drink.
Day 3: War + Red Sandstone
Heavy day, but a good one.
We started at the Cambodia War Museum. It’s not flashy, not polished, just real. We spoke to a veteran who shared his own story (he is known as The Cat, because he has nine lives).
If you want sanitized history, this isn’t it.
Three things that stick with me:
- Cambodia was bombed during the Vietnam War despite being neutral. I never learned anything about this war so there was a lot of ground to cover.
- The Khmer Rouge regime killed about 2 million people between 1975 to 1979.
- Landmines are still being cleared today. Sometimes by rats trained to uncover the mines.
Next, we visited the Killing Fields of Siem Reap. It was quiet and sobering, yet necessary. The thought of prisoners of war starving and forced to work under the midday sun was almost impossible to comprehend. Any thoughts of discomfort from my own sweating seemed ridiculous and rude.
Over the past year, Mike and I have learned a lot about war, including visiting the WWI battlefields in France for Mike’s family history.
Standing there, free, and having the choice to travel, it’s a strange feeling to reflect on the unimaginable suffering that happened on the very ground beneath your feet.
Although uncomfortable, I would highly recommend the experience. Approached with an open mind, gratitude, and respect, these sites offer more than a holiday… They offer a chance to learn, to reflect, and to deepen your understanding of history and humanity.
The afternoon swung back to ancient wonder as we headed out to more distant temples, including one built in red sandstone (Banteay Srei) so intricately carved it looks like stone lace. The drive out was long, but worth every minute, as riding in the trailer behind a motorbike was fun. Plus our driver Bun was fantastic. Leaving Banteay Srei we sipped on fresh coconuts.
Regarding Bun, on our first day we were unsure how to get about, and Mike just flagged down a random tuk-tuk. Before we knew it we were organizing for him to take us around on another day. He was safe, spoke great English, knew his way around, and had icy water for us. He was also so thankful to have our business so randomly. He had not expected to make money like he did with us randomly jumping in.
Dinner was back at the hotel because the heavens opened. Monsoon rain + hotel food and staying dry = lovely.
Day 4: Floating Village + The Best Dinner of the Trip
We relaxed in the morning and visited the Made in Cambodia Market, which was great quality and unique compared to the usual fare in mass markets.
The afternoon we had booked a tour to the Floating Village. This was not on our radar but spontaneity meant we had time to schedule it in. A bus took us to the shores of an enormous lake, where we caught a boat, and toured the floating village. It was truly fascinating and unlike anywhere else Mike or I have been. As part of the experience we took the Tonle Sap Canoe Tour. A local woman hummed and paddled us through mangroves, returning us to a giant floating restaurant with a crocodile pen. Life literally rises and falls with the lake.
Weather meant we couldn’t go out onto Tonle Sap Lake for sunset, but honestly the village itself was the highlight. It’s raw, creative, adaptive living borne out of the government wanting to provide land to people who once lived permanently on boats on the lake. Absolutely worth it, even without a tourist snapshot sunset.
We returned to Siem Reap and jumped off the bus in the centre of the tourist area, wandering to find a restaurant. It was closed. So we went to the next one we saw: Sambo Khmer & Thai Restaurant. It was absolutely fantastic. Plus the staff were super friendly. Maybe it was because I cheered my mocktail to them behind the bar.
We wandered a few streets before stopping to share gelato. Lemon and pistachio. You can’t have fresh coconuts every night!
Day 5: Last Temples + Late Flight
We squeezed in more temples because hey, temples! Every temple visit feels like “one last one” until suddenly it’s three last ones.
We returned again to Angkor Wat, waiting under huge trees for pouring rain to subside before remembering we had just walked across Nepal in the monsoon, and we had a hotel room, so we walked with purpose in the pouring rain. Then wandered about the ancient stones as our clothes dried slowly in the humidity.
Back to The Bliss Angkor for dinner and a final reset before heading to the airport for an 11 p.m. flight to Bangkok. It was deliberate to fly so late to maximize the time we had in Cambodia.
Final Thoughts
Siem Reap is equal parts fascinating, confronting, sweaty, and humbling. There are struggles, and there is hustle. There is incredible local food, contrasted with international options like gelato.
The temples are so intricate and so huge, it’s recommended to break them up with visits to other parts of the city.
The floating village is absolutely worthwhile if you visit during the monsoon. Across the city, you feel the resilience of the people. The daily challenges they navigate, alongside the growing opportunities that tourism brings.
Four days in Siem Reap left us with the sense of a place that is full of stories for visitors still unfolding…
