This was our first foray into the Walls of Jerusalem, a “spectacular but challenging alpine wilderness walk with breathtaking views, steep climbs, and unpredictable weather that rewards preparation and perseverance” according to Parks Tasmania.
Mike and I joined my sister Mandy, who is lucky to live in Tasmania, on a clock-wise loop toward Dixon’s Kingdom. Yes, Dixon’s Kingdom. There was no way we wouldn’t be going there!
We originally planned for two nights. The forecast promised one good day, one questionable day, and one totally crap late in the day one. That turned out to be extremely accurate.
We opted to walk the full loop out on the second day. Snow rolled in that night, which confirmed we’d made the right call and avoided what would have been a miserable extra night.
Day one: snacks, sunshine and square scat
Day one was excellent. Blue skies, calm air, and that crisp Tasmanian alpine air that you can’t get enough of. The climb settled us in quickly, and after reaching the historic Trapper’s Hut, the landscape started changing fast. We even spotted snow over on Cradle Mountain National Park!
It was nice to hike with my sister, which was the highlight of the trip. This was the same as our foray into the Southern Flinders Ranges with my other sister Mel. Walking, chatting, and sharing observations of nature near and far helped the kilometres pass.
Wildlife appearances were also rewarding. Though maybe not the tiger snake catching some rays on a wooden boardwalk. It wasn’t a problem but a good reminder we were in Australia after all!
Later in the day a few wallabies darted in and out of scrub, and we spotted a wombat going about its business with zero interest in us. The real giveaway to their populations, though, was the wombat poo. Brown slightly rounded cubes like little trick chocolates of nature.
Even though our original plan was two nights, I decided one or two nights justified carrying heaps of food. Time to dust off the Himalayan cobwebs!
My pack was heavy in that specific way that only unnecessary food and snacks can explain. Allen’s Retro Party Mix… what a yummy throwback.
We stuck to the main trail, though I can see why people take three or four days to do the loop with all the different side trips.
One of my favourite areas was a soggy, luminous stretch between Herod’s Gate and Damascus Gate, where springs bubbled up crystal-clear water among cushion plants, so clear that the depth was totally deceiving.
Reaching Dixon’s Kingdom felt earned, and it did not disappoint. Even the new toilets had an absurdly good view! There were boxes with locks for possums, which I admit was more relaxing to deal with than bear lockers (or bear hangs!) back in Canada.
I also experimented and proved you can carry and cook fresh tofu, pre-packed butter chicken sauce, microwave-ready black rice, and salted peanuts for a delicious “two-stove-giant-bowls-backcountry meal”.
There were around half a dozen other groups on the tent pads. Which were less pads and more elevated recycled plastic wonders of the modern kind. Nonetheless we all had a decent sleep, and the stars greeting us anyone out for a midnight wee were spectacular.
Day two: Same place, different mood
The second morning started calm but grey. We packed up, admired Dixon’s Kingdom one last time, and headed off feeling good about our timing.
The pencil pines were a standout. Ancient, slow-growing, and photogenic. The moss mounds looked like something from a Studio Ghibli film that you could dance across on tiptoes. Then you remember they are extremely delicate and stepping on them is a no-no.
About two hours before reaching the car, we stopped at Lake Adelaide and made a hot tea. It was glorious sitting about on our backpacks and having the whole place to ourselves.
Then, not long after we left Lake Adelaide, the rain arrived. Not dramatic, just steady and soaking. Enough to slow things down, dampen spirits slightly, and make us pay more attention to where we put our feet.
This is where Tasmania reminds you it’s not messing around. The mountains may be small compared to the other ranges, but the weather hitting them flies across uninterrupted seas and dumps wind and moisture.
It‘s easy to see how people get caught out or underestimate the place. They mean it when they say the weather shifts quickly. Tassie tracks demand respect. You are expected to be prepared and capable, even on a popular route.
Still, there was something fitting about finishing wet and muddy. The Walls had shown us both sides of Tassie hiking, without extremes.
Final thoughts
One perfect day, one rainy finish. Wombats, wallabies, pencil pines, moss mounds, too much food, and just enough lollies.
The Walls of Jerusalem is beautiful, serious country, but it also leaves room for giggles, a steady pace, and views that change constantly before your eyes.
Tired, slightly chilly from the descent, and back at the car, it felt like exactly the trip it was meant to be. Thanks Mike and Mandy!