After some epic days and epic experiences we’ve reached Hongon with our amazing guide Som. 

You can see our progress here: GHT Map Updates

Also please excuse any formatting or photo mishaps it’s quite the “fun” to put this together on mobile 🙂

First challenge was “tagging” Kanchenjunga Base Camp / Pangpema at 5150m and the official start of the trail. The weather didn’t quite cooperate with 20cm of snow at Kangpachen, but we pushed along, with a seasoned Basque climber / Nepal visitor and an Israeli (both with their guides). I had nausea and ended up vomiting on the return from the base camp, but fun fact last year the GDT in Canada started the same way (me vomiting the night of the first official day on the trail – from old pizza not AMS!) Mike and Som felt strong above 5000m and looked after me down to Lhonak. 

We enjoyed staying at Lhonak for two nights. The garlic soup was a winner, as was the spicy noodles, and the indoor toilet (luxury!) Following food sorting back down in Ghunsa (thanks Dharke Sherpa for the amazing room at Kanchenjunga Guest House) we pushed over Nango La, again in bad weather due to snow. Arrived at a kharka only to find the shelter full of local trail builders. It was a miserable tent camp as sleet pounded us amongst the yak dung and our tent iced through the night.

On a rest day in Olunchung Gola we visited an 800 year old monastery. The lama kindly showed us a book, which was from Tibet and estimated 1200 years old. The books are not bound like in the west, but wrapped with linen and loose pages. As the only visitors in this incredible space it was very special.

Som’s singing at lunch time has also been special, he’s a good singer! We are not so good at learning lyrics, but are expanding our Nepali slowly. Only to be met with local dialects so we do our best. We are lucky to have Som who has not put a foot wrong with navigation. It’s new for us not to be “in control” in the mountains, but we trust Som and we make a good team. His knowledge of where to stay and what to ask makes the longer days so much easier.

The next challenge of Lumba Sumbha (5150m) awaited. We took a slower approach adding a day for acclimation and had one rainy day and one cloudy day. On the morning of the pass it was clear enough and we got up at 4.30am to try and beat the post-holing. It wasn’t easy crossing the pass and it was Mike’s turn to feel shit. Turns out he ate too much breakfast (Weetabix aka Canadian Tsampa) and the immediate steep climb gave him some nausea. 

After a long day over the pass we stayed at a yak herdsman’s home in Thudam. His name is Karma and his wife and two young children are in Kathmandu. He tends to 50 yaks and walks an hour uphill once a month to call his wife as that’s where there is cell service. The yak butter he makes, that we had in our dahl was very good. It’s strong and bitter but it was a nice light colour. We slept amongst old engraved cabinets from Tibet, lead acid batteries, what looked like bovine wormers, with a cat with burnt ears from always being near the fire, and doorways that we had to duck through. We shared our milk tea with Karma and we will never forget his hospitality.

Somehow our knees are holding up with the relentless steepness here. Some of the trails are mind blowing how they even exist. Not to mention how yaks cross some of the bridges!

We smell really bad. Like, really bad. No nice Canadian river washes here, just bathing in our own bacteria, old zinc sunscreen, smoke from chimney-less kitchens, and mud. We believe Nepal is where down jackets go to die.

A highlight so far for Mike was getting over Lumba Sumbha. One for me (Kristy) is descending muddy slippery trails and not impaling myself on bamboo stalks. Actually we saw the summits of Kanchenjunga and Makalu appear out of cloud from Lumba Sumbha so that was amazing. At lower elevations (2000-3000m) the evening thunderstorms make us feel cozy and we have enjoyed the random rooms and kitchens so far.

Life is constantly surrounded by the sounds of yaks, chickens, random village dogs, cats, and an array of morning birds that rival the songs of those in Australia.

The food is great, and while veggie Dahl bat is common the vegetables and local ingredients give every version its own flavours and textures. We supplement with protein powder and have been taking the odd electrolyte. I tried some “Chinese Biscuits” which were recommended to me. Apparently the Chinese army use them, and beware they’re tasty so China may take over the world just using these biscuits. Kind of like a shortbread but more compact.

The progress of solar and hydropower cannot be ignored, as well as roads being constructed on the most intense hillsides. Som was on the trail just last September with a German client, and as we came into Yak Kharka on 8 May a new road had completely replaced the trail.

Nepal is becoming a contrast of ancient trails, trade routes, and hiking versus progress and local benefits from access via road.

From here we have four days of camping ahead, going into one (if not the most) remote part of the GHT. We look forward to reaching Makalu Base Camp where we will live the “8000m expedition life” for a couple of nights thanks to Ang’s Himalayan Adventures.

The next update may be from Namche, about one third of the way along our adventure. We have some big days before then! Big and exciting!

Thanks to everyone who has sent messages, silly or serious, and we miss you all! Hope this adventure inspires you to try something outside your comfort zone, or try something new, or simply marvel at how easy life is for many of us.