The first foray into overnight hiking after completing the Great Himalaya Trail was reconnecting with the Australian landscape. Together with my sister Mel, who has done the full Heysen Trail twice (nuts!) and completed the Larapinta Trail this year, Mike and I headed to the Southern Flinders Ranges.
Mel had planned a two night hike including Hidden Gorge, camping near two huts, and proximity to the summit of Mount Remarkable near Melrose.
It was slightly surreal packing the gear for hiking overnight. And only two nights in mild temperatures our things were light. Putting the backpack on it almost felt “normal”. Makes sense after months doing that this year!
Day 1: Mambray Creek Campground to Hidden Gorge
15km, 403m gain, 780m loss
About 20m from the carpark I confidently crossed a small creek only to have a rock give way and fall straight on my ass! As water poured into my pants I struggled like a bug stuck on its back. Meanwhile Mel and Mike belly laughed. A family playing in the creek also found it hilarious. How was the ego, I’d just walked across the Himalaya and here I was!
It was a pleasant and interesting journey hiking up, around, then down into Hidden Gorge, which lived up to its name. The colour of the rock was like seeing an old friend, a deep orange and solid friend! Memories of rock climbing in Australia flowed back to Mike and I, as we touched and smelled the rock. There is no climbing in this gorge, but it was similar to many other places climbers frequent. A few other parties passed us in the opposite direction, as it was school holidays.
Flies were friendly, and there were many tadpoles in the pools in the gorge – a surprise for all of us. We eventually camped adjacent to Scarfe’s Hut and enjoyed a comfortable evening.
Day 2: Hidden Gorge to Mount Remarkable to Grays Hut
21km, 1277m gain, 852m loss
A lazy start, full of tea and coffee, we traipsed up to the ridge line. This area of the Southern Flinders is really cool, there are multiple parallel ridges and you can turn back and see Spencer Gulf at certain points. The red dirt showed patterns from lizards, snakes, kangaroos and Mel pointed out emu tracks.
There were flowers galore in the spring weather, which shared just enough breeze to keep the sun from feeling too warm. Higher up the vegetation transitioned to a band of sheoak trees, which whirred and purred and sounded like the ocean.
Descending steeply on rusty mesh to avoid erosion, the trail continued east and the hills became more open and rolling. The gum trees doubled in size and became sparser. Lunch was a relaxing hour at Sugar Gum Dam, watching ants, and relaxing in shade.
The next stretch to Grays Hut delivered kangaroos and emus, as well as a giant goanna! We watched at a distance as the lizard clung to a River Red Gum with massive claws. We saw nobody, and had seen nobody, all day. After reaching Grays Hut I was keen to tag Mount Remarkable, so Mike and I put up our tent, took some water and snacks in one backpack, and headed up. Mel took the opportunity to relax and read in the beautiful meadow.
Day 3: Grays Hut to Mambray Creek Campground
16km, 370m gain, 780m loss
A cool morning with pink fairy floss clouds gave way to a lovely blue sky. I could have stayed at Grays Hut for a week, exploring and painting and watching the clouds and the colours on the gums. Instead we completed an anti-clockwise loop along the Heysen Trail, following a creek bed back to the main track. Retraced our steps over the Black Range and powered down to the car with thoughts of bakery goods.
The climb back up the mesh was over before we knew it. It was also difficult not to compare the elevations with the Himalaya, and knowing any climb or descent would be over in a shorter distance bought a confidence and calmness to the walk. It was nice to go out and feel you could just “go do it” and enjoy it. There were no gear issues, body niggles, or ailments (not like this!) Sure, I felt a bit stiff after my sleeping mat kept going down at night, but we’d camped on dandelions and grass which made it pretty soft.
The temperatures increased as we hit the last few kilometres to Mambray Creek Campground. Flies landed on our hats, shoulders and backpacks – becoming little passengers on each stable sunny surface. It was better than shooing them away and having them all about your mouth and nose! I believe we swallowed nearly half a dozen flies for the trip, me: 1, Mel: 0 (smart Aussie hiker knew to wear a fly net), and Mike: 4.
On a better culinary note the trip was completed with lunch at the Kupsch Bakery in Crystal Brook. I highly recommend the amazing plain pastie… oooh and the custard tart!
1 Comment
By Mel
Loved spending time on the trail with you both xx