This us a random thoughts update…

We are in Austria. Crossed the Austrian and Italian border multiple times each day for a while there. We moved from the Julian Alps to rhe Carnic Alps. Not before a small dogleg on the trail into the NE corner of the Dolomitis. Now we are in the Zillertal Alps.

While we have our itinerary and know the distance, elevation gain/loss for each day and the final destination, we have no notes for the trail. We just haven’t read anything in preparation, so every day is a surprise. We have “stumbled upon” incredible sights such as WW1 bunkers, one of the famous climbing north faces of Europe (Cima Grande di Lavaredo), and stunning passes that give way to glaciers and green valleys.

Bodies are holding up well. Except the feet have given some mischief for both of us. Mike has had some toe blisters coming and going as his feet harden. I suspect the the combo of distance and elevation at a certain incline is making my calves and feet tighter than overwound clock springs, which makes the heels feel sore. We are managing these issues though and nothing debilitating. We have our trail legs now and the skin on our feet is tough.

So far we have met a number of other Via Alpina hikers. All fantastic people! A German couple (Christian and Sabine), an Austrian guy solo (Simon), a fellow Canadian (Olivier), a French couple (Laurent and Laurence), and a couple from Adelaide Australia (yes, how hilarious! Ella and Cam). For about a week we would see some of them each day, but now we are spreading out with our various itineraries. We admire the Europeans’ lack of visa requirements – meaning more time for the trail and even side trips up nearby summits.

We have been exceptionally lucky with the weather so far. However today rain is forecast. And maybe the next week will be rainy. Heck they need the rain. Some trails have been quite dusty. The glacier flows have been gushing and I know we are seeing some glaciers not long before they are gone.

Cows are the main animal we see along the way – maybe no surprise. Their bells ringing out. The birds are lovely with songs we have never heard before. We also heard a hiker yodel atop a peak, and although it was windy we could hear them. Incredible. Parachutes have flown above our heads as paragliders catch all the toasty thermals lately. Gondolas have beckoned as we trudge uphill next to them, powered by our breakfasts.

And yes, the food in Tirol has been incredibly good. The huts even have amazing food. I fear we have been spoiled early in the trip with delights like barley soup, crisp salads, freshly baked bread, schnitzel, and buchtlen. Our breakfasts are muesli, yogurt, bread, butter, cheese, ham and jam. Partial to the apricot jam as Austria loves their apricots – as they should they’re delicious!

It is a very different experience to hiking long distance in Canada or Nepal. There are wonderful things about all three places, but the experiences are so different I don’t think we’ll have a favourite. Maybe in time… we do find ourselves comparing terrain to Nepal and so far Nepal is much more difficult! But the distances of our days here are sometimes double what we did in Nepal, so as mentioned, tough to compare.

We are learning so much about the culture, language, food, and history of the places we walk through. It is a feast for the eyes as much as the brain. And other times it’s just nice to admire a butterfly and the sunlight through leaves above.

I won’t lie, some of the days ahead are monsters, 30km and 1800m+ gain and loss multiple times in a block between rest days. We will find out how we go, how our bodies and brains go, and it’s all part of the adventure!